Flavors of Ilocos: Irene's Vigan Empanada

Finally, we arrived at Vigan. And there's no better way to celebrate your arrival than a freshly made, crisp and savory, authentic and true-blue Vigan-style empanada.

After a long 6-7 hour drive from Manila, less the food stops, coffee stops, and pit stops, nothing like a taste of local flavors to get you back in the groove. Welcome to Vigan...

Located along the narrow streets of historic Vigan in Ilocos Sur, Irene's Vigan Empanada is a great way to get acquainted with the city. A family-run business, Irene Fortuna Santos has been serving her signature empanadas since 2004, using her grandmother's family recipes. 

The local delicacy traces its origins to Hispanic colonial rule, and remains one of Vigan's iconic street food. A panoramic glass wall reveals the kitchen of Irene's Vigan Empanada, visible from the narrow street. As you place your order, Irene and her staff prepare the empanadas in full view. Irene's Vigan Empanada uses only 100% rice flour, giving it a light color and a distinct crispness. The dough is rolled to a paper-thin flatness, and the fillings are then arranged and laid on the dough...

Irene's Vigan Empanada offers a variety of fillings, including pork, chicken, beef, tuna, and crab. But you've got to try the original, with garlicky Vigan longanisa and egg. The egg is neatly topped on the mound of minced Vigan longanisa, then delicately wrapped and folded, and it's ready for the fryer.

A first taste of authentic Vigan empanada's got to be special, so don't hold back and go all-out. The Jumbo Special Empanada (P 60), with two eggs, a double portion of Vigan longanisa, and vegetables stuffed in a light and crisp pastry shell is the appropriate choice to celebrate your arrival in Vigan.

A crunchy slice releases both steam and garlicky aroma, and the first bite delivers a burst of Vigan in all its rustic and bold flavors. A friend recommended dipping it in sukang iloko, a local vinegar with onions, garlic, and chili, and adding just a pinch of salt before taking a bite. The vinegar balances the richness, and the salt just brings out all the flavors. The lightness of the dough does not get in the way of the savory filling, allowing you to taste more of the filling with each crispy bite. One bite, and you're ready to explore and discover the diverse culinary heritage of the region. Welcome to Vigan...

Irene's Vigan Empanada is located along Salcedo Street (near Hotel Luna om Luna Street), Vigan, Ilocos Sur.

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