A One-Night Only Pop-Up with Chef Francis Balbarin at James & Daughters

Impressed. Chef Francis "Kiko" Balbarin reveals yet another facet to his creative culinary style with a unique pop-up at James & Daughters...

Chef Jonas Ng and James & Daughters recently hosted Chef Francis Balbarin for his first-ever pop-up in a memorable dinner that far exceeded all expectations. From elegant starters to inventive mains and sinfully indulgent desserts, Chef Francis Balbarin draws inspiration from the freshest local ingredients in creating a lavish repertoire of flavorful dishes in one memorable evening. And James & Daughters was the perfect venue to showcase Chef Francis Balbarin's honest take on real flavors. Chef Francis Balbarin lays it all on the table with his bold and intense flavors with each masterfully plated course, layered with a whole lot of good vibes at James & Daughters (for more on Chef Jonas Ng and James and Daughters, see my previous post, Weaving Flavorful New Stories at James & Daughters by Le Jardin).

For one evening only, Chef Francis Balbarin showcases an inspired take on refreshingly innovative dishes in his first-ever pop-up at James & Daughters before flying back to the US. With over eight courses planned for the fully-booked evening, Chef Francis Balbarin orchestrates the massive operation with his usual cool demeanor.

I first met Chef Kiko three years ago during a tasting for one his restaurants (for more on Chef Francis "Kiko" Balbarin, see my earlier post, Taking It To The Next Level: A Peek At Burgers & Brewskies' New Dishes), and knew then that his creative and bold approach to flavor was special. There's an unrestrained sincerity and honesty in his culinary creations, building layers of flavors using the freshest ingredients, and letting the dishes speak for themselves. For Chef Kiko's first course, the Grilled Octopus with Patani and Arugula, Pepper Coulis first feeds the eyes before the palate, becoming a sensory experience. Perfectly grilled, the fork-tender octopus releases a rich briny sweetness followed by a whisper of smoky hints and perfectly finished by the intense notes of the pepper coulis for balanced flavors. In between, the nutty sweetness of lima beans and fresh greens add yet another layer of flavor to the dish.

Meanwhile, back at the semi-open kitchen layout of James & Daughters, Chef Francis "Kiko" Balbarin plates the next courses. Chef Jonas Ng's team of chefs at James & Daughters keep the assembly line of elegantly-plated dishes rolling and dispatched with efficiency and precision as the next course was served...

For the second course, Chef Kiko's Beef Heart and Ribeye Tartare, Quail's Egg Yolk combines the savory richness of premium beef in a duo of beefy goodness topped with a quail egg. The dish highlights fresh, real and honest flavors, with the delicate spice blend complementing the natural flavors of the tender beef without overpowering it. The masterfully executed dish delivers finely balanced notes, with the freshness of the ingredients and different components coming together for real flavors.

The parade of fresh flavors continue with Chef Kiko's refreshing Barramundi and Scallop Ceviche, bringing distinct layers of clean notes in a seamless blend. The crisp deep-fried basil leaf and barramundi skin add not only textural contrasts but intense flavors as well to round out the complex notes of the delicately nuanced dish. A palate cleanser of Honey Basil and Lime Sorbet was then served before the main courses.

The evening's dinner goes into high gear as the first of three main courses was served, starting with the Squid Ink Linguini with Crab Roe and Anchovy Cream Sauce, Mussels and Scallops. The soft yet firm linguini, evenly coated with squid ink, delivers an indulgent richness with the briny crab roe tempered by the sharp notes of the anchovy cream sauce. The plump and succulent mussels and scallop complete the flavors. The blend of different and unique flavors are finely meshed together with each and every bite, leaving you craving for even more. But Chef Kiko has more savory courses up his sleeves...  

The Seared Duck Breast with Tamarind and Guava Gastrique, Miso Glazed Poached Papaya highlights an unusual combination yet one bite is all it takes to tell you it's a playfully inventive pairing that works. Perfectly. The tender and juicy duck breast delivers rich flavors lining the palate, lingering long after the first bite. The deep and defined notes of the guava gastrique adds a subtle sharpness to balance the richness of the duck breast, perfectly finished by the miso-glazed poached papaya capped its sweet and mildly salty hints.

The elegant dinner concludes with Chef Kiko's Confit of Pork Belly with Pumpkin and Coconut Cream, Chili Jam, and Potato Fondant, with a tender and juicy slab of pork with a lightly crisp layer of crackling. The savory richness of the pork is gently kicked-up by the sweetness of the pumpkin and coconut cream for comforting and hearty flavors. And that chili jam adds that subtle soothing heat to delight the palate. From starters to mains, Chef Kiko weaves flavorful stories inspired by the freshest, local ingredients revealing his own creative style enriched with his vast culinary experiences both here and abroad. It's a rare peek at the man himself, once again proving that he has more, much more, to offer with his honest perspective on real flavors. 

But the evening was far from over. Back at the kitchen, Chefs Kiko and Jonas prepare the final dessert courses...

Chef Kiko's Avocado Kaffir and Chevre Cheesecake with Strawberry Basil Sorbet caps the evening with another elegantly plated dish for an indulgent dessert. The creamy avocado and chevre blend gives his interpretation of the traditional cheesecake a rich and flavorful finish with the tart notes of the strawberry basil sorbet for contrasting flavor and texture. 

The intense notes of the second dessert, Dalandan Ice Cream with Strawberry Coulis, Rosemary Parfait, and Kaffir Meringue, caps the evening with its velvety smooth texture and vibrant notes. In a one-night only pop-up, Chef Francis "Kiko" Balbarin showcased a wide range of flavorful expressions revealing a facet of his creative culinary style with each course. It was an evening of reconnecting with old friends over a sumptuous feast, and one wonders if there would be a second, even a third, encounter with Chef Kiko's honest take on real flavors. Just keep your fingers crossed, and who knows, James & Daughters might just surprise you with another pop-up soon...


James & Daughters is located at the Ground Floor, The Westin Residences Manila Sonata, 21st Drive, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City or call 0917-817-6584 for inquiries and more information. You can also visit their FB Page at https://www.facebook.com/jamesanddaughters/ for more updates.

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