Thursday, April 21, 2016

Balance and Precision: A Special Dinner by Chef Kevin Cherkas at Sage Bespoke Grill

"You will taste Cuca tonight," said guest chef Kevin Cherkas, the world-class culinary master behind Bali's highly acclaimed Cuca Flavors Restaurant...


In a series of special limited engagements held last April 14, 15, and 16, 2016, Chef Kevin Cherkas shared his unique culinary style with a seven-course dinner at Sage Bespoke Grill. Honed by years of experience in Michelin Star restaurants including Arzak and El Bulli in Spain, and New York's Daniel, Chef Kevin Cherkas evolved with his own distinct approach using local ingredients infused with western techniques.

Walking with Chef Kevin Cherkas before his special scheduled dinners at Sage Bespoke Grill (see my post on A Day with Chef Kevin Cherkas) provided a unique glimpse on his approach to bold flavors. His inventive Moongria (R), with orange, pineapple, and watermelon ice cubes set the tone for the evening...


...paired with Chef Kevin Cherkas' equally impressive appetizers, like the Bollo Iberico, honey-glazed pork, pickled cabbage, and coriander on a soft pancake bun. The delicate balance of complex flavors weave seamlessly with each and every bite, with the tender pork infused with all the spices and seasonings prepared in Sage Bespoke Grill's Josper Grill (more on the prep work of Chef Kevin Cherkas on my previous post here). For Chef Kevin Cherkas, it's about balance and precision, researching on local ingredients and infusing his own inventive spin, as seen in the next set of appetizers...


...like the Champinones del Bosque, pickled mushrooms stuffed with ricotta cheese and roasted garlic, with the nutty and briny notes of the fresh pickled mushrooms pairing well with the creamy ricotta and the roasted garlic. The distinct layers of flavors come through without overwhelming the other, each gently blending together with each bite. Balance and precision, skillfully executed...


A seafood appetizer, the Vieiras al Horno, with scallop, mashed cauliflower on toasted butter crust, rounds up the list of appetizers, as more Sangria and Moongria were served. The mild briny sweetness of the fresh scallop linger long after the first bite, followed by buttery layer of the toasted butter crust and the sweet mashed cauliflower for rich flavors and textures. After another round of cocktails at Sage Bar, it was time to move up to Sage Bespoke Grill for the special dinner by Chef Kevin Cherkas.


The special dinner began with Chef Kevin Cherkas' Ceviche de Pescado, sliced raw fresh fish drizzled with chili lime dressing and topped with watermelon ice, a colorful dish with equally vibrant flavors and textures. The delicate notes of the fresh fish are punctuated by the sharp yet refreshing chili lime dressing, capped by the sweet crunch of the watermelon ice. Tart, sweet, with just a whisper of heat, Chef Kevin Cherkas continues to play with a rich tapestry of flavors as the next courses were served...


Pulpo a la Brasa, with tender grilled Galician octopus, Asian gazpacho, fresh apple, caramelized cauliflower, and coriander, highlights the full range of flavors and textures in one dish, with the delicate and smoky notes of the fork-tender grilled Galician octopus punctuated by hints of coriander, the sweetness of the caramelized cauliflower, the fresh and tart notes of the green apple slices and the hearty Asian gazpacho. The complex play on different and distinct flavors are tempered by a fine balance, expertly woven by Chef Kevin Cherkas with each dish.


Chef Kevin Cherkas' playfully inventive style is featured in the next dish, the Arroz Caldoso, with delicately hand-cut squid grains, vegetable stew, garlic cream, and popped Valencian rice. Imagine a dish replacing rice with hand-cut squid as the base, and you get the picture. Soft, almost melt-in-your-mouth, releasing a burst of rich flavors, capped by the equally rich garlic cream. The popped Valencian rice adds texture for a memorable finish.


And who doesn't enjoy a fried chicken dish? Chef Kevin Cherkas brings back the comforting flavors of fried chicken with his Pollo Frito, crisp organic chicken with wild honey, country coleslaw, sesame dust and basil. The chicken is juicy with a crisp outer layer, with sesame seeds adding another layer of crunch, contrasting with the sharp notes of the briny country coleslaw for balance. The nutty notes of the sesame dust cap the dish with its distinct flavor and texture.


Ternera con Patatas, a rustic dish with fork-tender beef and mushrooms, whipped potato, and Rioja red marmalade, round up the mains in the epic dinner by Chef Kevin Cherkas. Slow-cooked for hours, it's a classic meat and potatoes dish given a special twist by Chef Kevin Cherkas, with the rich, beefy and savory notes of the beef balanced by the sharp flavors of the red wine marmalade, capped by the creamy whipped potatoes. From starters to mains, Chef Kevin Cherkas' unique style showcased the rich flavors of Cuca Flavors Restaurant, but there's more...


For dessert, Chef Kevin Cherkas recreated the signature dessert of Cuca Flavors Restaurant, Desayuno, an elegant dessert with sweet runny mango, frozen passion fruit and whipped coconut. An elegantly plated dessert, the dish first feeds the eyes with its intricate presentation.

And there's no egg at all in this dish. Drawing inspiration from years of experience with Arzak, El Bulli, and Daniel, Chef Kevin Cherkas infuses a touch of molecular gastronomy in his signature dessert. Gently tap the egg yolk-like sweet runny mango and let it blend with the whipped coconut and frozen passion fruit for refreshing tropical notes. 


Chef Kevin Cherkas' Tarta de Tea-ramisu, infuses Asian flavors in this classic Italian dessert, with black tea cake and grass jelly, mascarpone cream, and caramelized pumpkin seeds. The rich notes of the mascarpone cream are tempered by the mildly bitter hint of the black tea, elegantly finished by the caramelized pumpkin seeds and soft grass jelly for yet another perfectly executed dessert.


Balance. Precision. Masterfully executed. Chef Kevin Cherkas and partner restaurateur Virginia Entizne chat with guests at the end of the memorable dinner at Sage Bespoke Grill, sharing their plans of taking the unique flavors of Cuca to the region in a series of culinary tours (for more on Cuca Flavors Restaurant, check out their website at https://www.facebook.com/cucaflavor) and who knows, they just might be in your city.

Sage Bespoke Grill is located at Level 2, Makati Shangri-La, Manila, Ayala Avenue, Makati City or call (632) 814-2580 for reservations and inquiries.

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