In a continuing series showcasing local regional flavors, the Philippine Heritage Kitchen led by Chef Reggie Aspiras and CCA Manila takes you north of the metro to experience the flavors of Malabon. Known for its famous Pancit Malabon, lechon, crispy pata, okoy, tinapa and wide variety of native kakanin or glutinous rice cakes, the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila reveal yet another layer in the colorful tapestry of Filipino cuisine with Once Upon A Time in Malabon...
The Glass House at New World Makati Hotel becomes the elegant setting for yet another culinary spectacle of traditional local flavors as the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila presents Once Upon A Time in Malabon. Following the success of previous editions in its continuing series, Once Upon A Time in Malabon brings to life the enduring stories and flavors of the city with a lavish buffet feast at The Glass House (see more from the previous editions by the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila on my previous posts The Filipino Story On A Plate: Acclaimed Chef Reggie Aspiras And CCA Manila Brings Traditional Local Flavors To BGC At The Launch Of The Philippine Heritage Kitchen from April this year featuring the flavors of Ilocos and From Salad To Sizzling, Retracing The Origins Of Pampanga's Sisig And Its Place In The Filipino Culinary Experience At The Sisig Festival By The Philippine Heritage Kitchen And CCA Manila from early this month highlighting Pampanga's iconic pork dish). Take your seat and prepare to embark on another culinary journey led by Chef Reggie Aspiras of Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila up north of the metro at New World Makati Hotel...
For one day, Chef Reggie Aspiras of the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila brings together Malabon's top culinary personalities bannered by Chefs Melissa Sison Oreta, Isi Laureano, Carlo Agustin and CCA Manila founder Annie Pascual Guerrero. Also part of the impressive roster is Anthony Reyes Baron, also known as Kuya Jay of Malabon's popular Jay R-D Original Okoy. From heirloom recipes of Malabon's illustrious families to street food staples, Once Upon A Time in Malabon presents a culinary snapshot of the city's culinary heritage in one memorable day at The Glass House.
At The Glass House, a heritage marketplace was set up for an immersive Malabon experience featuring local food businesses like Malabon Food Cravings, Mama Belen's Kitchenette, Dolor's Kakanin, Milflores, and Remilly's Yema Cake with their sumptuous array of fish crackers, beer nuts, kropek, tinapa, bagoong, patis, and sapin-sapin delicacies.
The on-going series by the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila aims to preserve and promote local culinary traditions focusing on regional cuisine, an advocacy personally championed by Chef Reggie Aspiras. Food they say is memory, transporting you back to a different time and place. It's also the defining weave of who we are and our cultural identity. From the previous editions featuring the cuisines of Ilocos and Pampanga, the Philippine Heritage Kitchen and CCA Manila present the local culinary heritage of Malabon for a fuller and wider perspective of the Filipino flavor experience.
Executive Director of hapPINAY and creative force behind Kusina ni Misis O, Chef Melissa Sison-Oreta shared her personal connection with Malabon becoming one of the city's leading advocates in preserving its storied culinary heritage. Together with Chef Reggie Aspiras, Chef Melissa Sison-Oreta orchestrated the lavish presentation of Malabon's rich traditions with each dish for Once Upon A Time in Malabon.
The Pascual Family Table reflected timeless and enduring recipes curated by CCA Manila founder Annie Pascual-Guerrero for a more personal peek at Malabon's culinary traditions...
...with dishes like this elegant rendition of Chicken Galantina. Any story of food always begins at home, the starting point and foundation of all our food memories and stories...
...brought to life in hearty renditions from the matriarch's Susana's Asado to Menudo ni Cabo.
A costal city with access to fresh seafood coupled with a deep and rich history in the brining and smoking process predating the colonial experience, tinapa remains a popular staple in Malabon. Chef Melissa Sison-Oreta honors this tradition with her creative renditions of Tinapa Sisig...
...and Tinapa Pasta for a modern and inventive reinterpretation of the local staple. Both tradition and innovation are tightly woven in the continuing story and evolution of local cuisine, and Once Upon A Time in Malabon celebrates these deliberately inventive infusions at the buffet spread.
Manned by CCA Manila students, guests were treated to an impressive spread at The Glass House...
...starting with the iconic Pancit Malabon. Not just one rendition, but three tempting options prepared by Malabon's famous Mama Belen's Kitchenette, Milflores and Dolor's.
Based on the original recipe, the three establishments presented their own interpretation with different noodles and savory medley of toppings...
...each one delivering the familiar richness of the Malabon classic. Topped with succulent shrimps with its fresh, bold yet clean briny sweetness, boiled eggs and vegetables, each bite teases the palate with its flavorful play on the freshest ingredients and assortment of flavors.
More local specialties were served at the spread including the famous Tortang Alimango...
...and savory Torta Malabon slathered in a thick flavor-packed gravy from Malabon's Ate Baby of Barangay Dampalit. Another must-try? The Ate Baby Sumpia, crisp spring rolls generously filled with vegetables best paired with their spiced vinegar dip.
More fresh flavors tempts the eyes with the Lumpiang Hubad by Malabon's Mama Belen's Kitchenette. In one extensive buffet spread, Once Upon A Time in Malabon faithfully captures and recreates the rich diversity of flavors from Malabon.
Then, Kuya Jay of Malabon's popular Jay R-D Original Okoy takes over one part of the open kitchen at The Glass House to prepare his signature crunchy deep-fried shrimp fritters...
...and in mere minutes, stacks up an impressive array of fresh, hot and crisp Okoy. From the large "Regular" size Okoy to the massive plate-sized variant, Malabon's viral street food sensation almost steals the show for Once Upon A Time in Malabon.
For Malabon locals, these crisp fritters are nothing new. The thin and crisp fritters generously loaded with plump shrimps and bean sprouts have been delighting locals for over three decades. It's one more culinary secret out of Malabon that's sharing the spotlight with other local treats at Once Upon A Time in Malabon.
Each crispy and crunchy Okoy is tediously handmade on a plate, loaded with shrimps and poured with their secret richly seasoned batter before gently yet swiftly sliding it on the hot oil in one smooth and fluid motion by Kuya Jay. Located at the Concepcion Public Market, Jay-R D Original Okoy is also available for online orders via Malabon Food Cravings along with other Malabon specialties.
And there's more. The open kitchen at The Glass House then laid out another local fave fresh off the fryers...
...with crisp and juicy slabs of deep-fried pork knuckles from Judy Ann's Crispy Pata. Established way back in 1972, the business is now managed by the founder's daughter whose name marks another culinary landmark among Malabon locals. Savory, juicy and tender capped by a delicately crisp layer of crisp crackling, the pork knuckles are marinated in a special special marinade giving it a distinct sweet, salty and tangy flavor profile. And for more than a half century, Judy Ann's Crispy Pata has been satisfying crispy pork knuckle cravings beyond Malabon.
It's not a Filipino feast without lechon, right? At Once Upon A Time in Malabon, guests were treated to Malabon style spit roasted whole lechon.
Crispy crackling over juicy pork combine for a tempting savory duo you just can't pass up and you give in by picking up a plate...
Generously stuffed with aromatics including lemongrass, native garlic, whole black peppercorns, scallions and salt, each bite is complete with all the flavors. And that crackling just completes the textures and flavors of Malabon style lechon. And yes, the spit roasted pork pairs nicely with Pancit Malabon for a true Malabon style feast.
To complete your immersive Malabon experience, Chef Melissa Sison-Oreta introduced Chef Isi Laureano for one of two cooking demos. Born and raised in Malabon, Chef Isi Laureano demonstrated the recipe for Valencia Triangulo made famous by Malabon's Aling Tessie of Barangay Flores. Chef Isi Laureano is a proud advocate of Malabon cuisine, hosting food tours aboard a tricycle as well as private dinners in her home.
A distinctly unique take on the classic turon, the triangle-shaped Valencia Triangulo stuffed with banana, jackfruit and toasted pinipig combine for a sweet and crisp treat.
The second demo featured the enduring Pancit Malabon. Chef Carlo Agustin is the fourth generation owner of the family-run Mama Belen's Kitchenette and a descendant of Rosie Pacheco also known as the "Queen of Pancit Malabon." One of the dishes that shaped and defined Malabon's culinary landscape, Chef Carlo Agustin presented Mama Belen's Kitchenette's signature offering using thick round rice noodles mixed in the bright yellow-orange sauce seasoned with shrimps, fish sauce and annatto and topping it with boiled egg, pork tongue, shrimps, Baguio pechay, fried garlic, kinchay, crushed chicharon and adobong talaba.
More than just a dish, the popular Pancit Malabon is a source of local pride and a living thread connecting generations of families with a shared culinary tradition. The dish also represents the city's vibrant maritime past with its abundant coastal resources reflecting heritage, family, community and resilience. There are countless stories still to be shared, best enjoyed one tasty bite and plate at a time.
For dessert, guests enjoyed a D-I-Y Halo-Halo Station with sweet condiments from Ellet's, indulgent Broas from Tita Betsy and the Puto Pie by Edwin's...
...along with tempting kakanin delicacies like the Sapin-Sapin from Dolor's and other treats like Pitsi-Pitsi, Puto Pao, Cassava Cake and Kalamay.
As with other local regional cuisines, Malabon's rich culinary heritage has been shaped by both history and geography infused with Spanish and Chinese influences and enriched by an abundance of fresh seafood with fish sauce, fermented shrimp paste and crab fat often used in savory dishes for bold, umami-driven notes complemented by an array of sweet native rice cakes. And this is just a page from the voluminous book of Filipino culinary history. The Philippine Heritage Kitchen led by Chef Reggie Aspiras and CCA Manila takes you straight to the source of flavor, one region at a time with its on-going series. Where to next?
For more on the Philippine Heritage Kitchen, you can view their IG Feed at https://www.instagram.com/phheritagekitchen/ for more information and updates.
The Glass House is located at New World Makati Hotel, Esperanza Street corner Makati Avenue, Ayala Center, Makati City, Metro Manila.
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