Some food for thought to initiate engaging dialogue and a luxurious dinner by emerging chefs with Filipino roots from Orlando and Toronto marks the itinerary for the day. It's a full day at the International Manila Food Festival with a series of panel discussions and a sumptuous feast taking you to the meat of the matter at the first ever major international culinary event in the metro since Madrid Fusion Manila...
After a memorable inaugural dinner to formally open the International Manila Food Festival last August 7 at Casa Buenas in Newport World Resorts (more on my post here at Food For Thought: Rediscovering Filipino Cuisine With A Fresh Perspective At The First International Manila Food Festival in Casa Buenas), the festival gets down to business with some real talk on the current state of Filipino cuisine from industry stalwarts and a lavish dinner featuring contemporary expressions of traditional Filipino flavors by Chefs Lordfer Lalicon of Kaya Orlando and Danny Cancino of Mineral Toronto at Yawaragi in Hotel Okura. Both chefs, rising stars from the US and Canada, offer yet another fresh and creative perspective on modern Filipino cuisine for even more colorful layers in the evolving story of our culinary heritage.
The day began with a series of discussions on the local culinary scene including the way forward for Filipino cuisine, tradition versus innovation, building a sustainable Filipino brand on the global stage, reimagining sustainability in Filipino food ways and Philippine cuisine for culinary education. In a country where adobo, considered by many as the unofficial national dish yet at the center of a never-ending argument due to its diversity kicks of the discussion on a high note. The very name of the dish is said to have been derived from the Spanish word for marinade or cooking method, and that explains the wide range of styles varying from one region, family recipe, tradition and home kitchen. But first, is tradition a barrier to innovation? While cuisine like anything else in the world is constantly evolving, fresh perspectives are vital in keeping a local cuisine relevant. Food, after all, is memory and a collection of stories from the past that have shaped and defined our identity. And that's why I've always been fascinated how foreign chefs have interpreted local flavors and admire how a new generation of Filipino chefs abroad reimagine Filipino dishes driven by nostalgic memories and stories. Panelists agreed that a deep respect for tradition and understanding the origins of the dish must remain the basis and foundation for creativity.
Which brings us to adobo, in all its glorious interpretations and regional variations. One has to look at similar models like France with its mind-blogging array of cheeses ranging from 1,200 and 1,800 variants depending on one of many categorizing methods like designation of origin or AOP. Yet France has somehow standardized the culinary foundation of their national cuisine with their mother sauces where Bechamel is Bechamel no matter what the region. But standardization may not be the easy answer in the case of adobo. At the end of the day, Filipino food like adobo is a celebration of diversity. And more importantly, it's crucial to assess and re-assess previous discussions on the topic so we can build on past learnings instead of starting all over again.
Is Filipino cuisine ready to take its much-anticipated place on the global table? Yes, but there's a lot of work to be done. Take Thailand, Vietnam and Korea, whose respective governments have successfully built their brand of cuisine on a global scale. Thailand has taken the lead with innovative programs like the ThaiSelect seal of authenticity for its restaurants worldwide. In the US alone, Asian restaurants specifically Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese and Japanese establishments far outnumber Filipino restaurants. We've always heard that Filipino food is the next big thing yet the numbers offer a different story. Filipino food has so much stories to tell, shaped by the past and present and a whole new unwritten chapter to be unveiled in the future. Like they say, a cuisine without a story has no value. And we have stories waiting to be shared, discovered and experienced. But we need to go deeper with better storytelling and relevant programs that highlight local ingredients with real support down to the grassroots to farming, livestock and fishing communities. In its first inaugural run, the International Manila Food Festival opened up the discussion on the way forward with Filipino cuisine. Later that day, Chefs Lordfer Lalicon of Kaya Orlando and Danny Cancino of Mineral Toronto served up their own personal stories at the Rising Sons dinner for yet another insight on comforting and familiar flavors with a fresh perspective...
...and there's just no better stage than Yawaragi in Hotel Okura with its impressive and elegant space.
Yawaragi is Hotel Okura's luxurious Japanese dining outlet offering international gourmet dishes bannered by Japanese and Filipino specialties. Yawaragi, which means "harmony" and "serenity" is a visually stunning space with its elegant design inspired by its take on a modern Japanese village theme. That night, Orlando and Toronto arrived in Manila via Yawaragi in a lavish 5-Course Set Course Dinner as one of many culinary highlights from the International Manila Food Festival.
At one of many open kitchens, the culinary teams led by guest Chefs Lordfer Lalicon and Danny Cansino begin the prep work for the Rising Sons dinner. It's these moments when guests can feel the energy and magic behind each dish adding yet another layer to your dining experience at the International Manila Food Festival.
Clearly in the zone, Chef Lordfer begins the first act in a lengthy series of movements for the Rising Sons dinner...
...as Chef Danny orchestrates yet another set of movements in a delicate ballet of precision and timing at the other end of Yawaragi.
The action behind the kitchen gears up as more guests for the Rising Sons dinner arrive at Yawaragi. And guests are rewarded with a sneak glimpse of the vibrant kitchen building both excitement and anticipation for the coming feast.
A soothing libation before the feast? Let Liquido Maestro Kalel Demetrio tempt your palate with his wicked creations...
...like the Negroni Yawaragi, a smooth concoction of local spirits to get you in the groove.
After your second cocktail, your table is ready. On the way, you spot what may be the next batch of culinary stars working alongside Chefs Lordfer and Danny and the Yawaragi team. The International Manila Food Festival brings all stakeholders in the F&B industry including the education sector with the shared cause of advancing Filipino cuisine on the global stage. And the future looks bright...
...as the first course is served.
Chefs Lordfer and Danny starts the Rising Sons feast with intricate Japanese-inspired bites, setting the tone for the feast ahead. Intricately plated, the savory canapes provide a quick glance at the inventive styles and colorful palette of flavors from each guest chef.
Chef Danny's elegant HamachiStek + Strawberry brings vibrant and flavorful bursts of savory richness and sweetness to the palate, driven by the freshness and quality of ingredients. The combination of premium hamachi and strawberries combine for a decadent blend of contrasting yet complementary flavors...
...while Chef Lordfer's inventive Sinangag + Bluefin Tuna is a playful spin on a Japanese staple with a delectable play on textural contrasts and fresh clean notes.
The subtle nutty hints of the garlicky sinangag brings a distinctly local note to Chef Lordfer's creation without feeling forced, and it just makes sense after that one bite when everything comes together in a seamless and balanced finish. The first course was paired with Mio Sparkling Sake to complete the flavors.
The beautifully plated Hokkaido Uni + Mango by Chef Lordfer feeds first the eyes before the palate...
...with that first bite releasing fresh, bold and briny hints from the uni perfectly tempered by the luscious sweetness of the mangoes for another exquisite play on flavors.
Chef Danny weaves pure and fresh flavors with his imaginative Fruit Carpaccio + Asin Tibuok with paper-thin slices of pineapple delivering clean yet complex notes to tease the palate. Deceptively simple showcasing meticulous execution and unrestrained notes, Chef Danny impresses with this novel even unexpected play on carpaccio. Both starters were paired with Susana Balbo Crios Rosé from Argentina.
Throughout the evening, premium beers from San Miguel refreshed and cleansed the palate with each course...
...alongside Liquido Maestro Kalel Demetrio's spirited Rebolusyon cocktail, a citrusy libation with some seriously rebellious attitude.
Back at the open kitchen, the tempo goes up a notch...
...with each station preparing the components for the next dish.
The pacing by the kitchen and service were spot on as the entrees were served...
...starting with the Langoustine Sinigang by Chef Danny. Lightly battered and deep-fried for that delicately crisp texture with the broth poured separately, it's another creative reinterpretation of an enduring local staple.
The succulent sweetness of the langoustine comes through with each lightly crisp bite and the mildly sour yet intensely flavored broth brings this story of comfortingly familiar flavors with each sip. Like adobo, the traditional sinigang varies by ingredient and souring agent depending on the region. And Chef Danny nails it with his elegant rendition.
Chefs Danny and Lordfer then served their "Palayok" Native Rice, "Adobo" Salad combo bringing hearty flavors to the table. The courses were paired with Lustau Almacenista Fino from Spain.
Chefs Danny and Lordfer then shared their collaborative take on kare-kare using premium Australian Tenderloin Beef perfectly grilled to medium rare with a juicy pink center draped in thick kare-kare sauce and sprinkled with chopped peanuts with dabs of Bagoong Caramel, Kalabasa Puree and Cashew Eggplant adorning the plate.
Growing up abroad, both Chefs Danny and Lordfer drew inspiration from nostalgic memories of home-cooked meals and elegantly transformed it making their own creative stories on a plate with the 2-Way Kare-Kare using modern techniques while remaining true to the original dish. The savory richness of the premium Australian Tenderloin is in itself a savory upgrade as the collection of colorful sauces completes the familiar flavors for this next-level rendition. It may not look like your mom's kare-kare, but the flavors are there to warm the palate. From starters to mains, Chefs Danny and Lordfer are finally home with their imaginative spin on comforting local flavors.
For dessert, Chefs Danny and Lordfer continue their stories with pure indulgence...
...for that memorable homecoming at Yawaragi.
Just when you think Chefs Danny and Lordfer are done, this decadent ensemble is served as the fitting finale to a lavish feast of Filipino flavors reimagined and reinterpreted with creative flair...
...with the Iced Capp Ice Cream...
...and Petite Fours "Timbit" Style with Honey Creuller, Guyabano "Timbit" and Pate de Fruit to end another memorable evening at the International Manila Food Festival on a high note. I've always been fascinated by how foreigners and Fil-Ams perceive and reinterpret local cuisine, and Chefs Danny and Lordfer bring their own unique perspective with their elegant renditions worthy of a space on the global table. Creative innovation rooted in tradition is one way to move Filipino cuisine forward, and Chefs Danny and Lordfer show us how to experience and enjoy local flavors with a fresh palate and perspective. It's storytelling elegantly plated with each course at the Rising Sons dinner in Yawaragi.
And soon, more stories will emerge from a new generation of creative storytellers as students from Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo...
...and CCA Manila learn real world experience in a world-class kitchen environment. And the International Manila Food Festival is far from over with the Lasa x Lahi Grand Tasting up next on the blog. The time for Filipino cuisine to shine is now and the Rising Sons dinner at Yawaragi in Hotel Okura is just the proverbial tip of the iceberg with more yet to come...
For more information from the recent International Manila Food Festival, visit their FB Page and IG Feed at https://www.facebook.com/manilafoodfestival and https://www.instagram.com/intlmanilafoodfestival/
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