Rediscovering the Local Bread Culture: Philippine Breads by Chef Gene Gonzalez

Pan de Putok. Pan de Hangin. Pan de Sal de Antigua. Bunuelos...

Traditional breads from the past, seen in a new light, as Chef Gene Gonzalez lets you rediscover the local bread culture with his latest book, Philippine Breads by Anvil Publishing. Chef Gene Gonzalez shares more than sixty recipes of distinctly local breads, many tracing its roots to Spanish and American influences, each one a significant piece in the melting pot of Filipino cuisine.

Philippine Breads is the latest culinary book from Chef Gene Gonzalez, taking you back to simpler times with nostalgic local breads including recipes for homemade pan de sal, pan de aguas, rosquetas, Ensaymada Bulacan, Puto Binondo, pan de regla, pilipit, and many more. 

 

At Cafe Ysabel's kitchen, Chef Gene Gonzalez supervises the preparation of the local bread for the book launch before baking (for more on Chef Gene Gonzalez and Cafe Ysabel, see my previous post on their classic cuisine here and a special Carabao Cheese-themed dinner here).

The brick oven is then fired up, and once the desired temperature is reached, the initial batch of prepared dough is then placed in the wood-burning oven. In minutes, the dough is transformed to the familiar staples that were part of everyone's childhood, as the fragrant aroma of freshly baked bread permeates from the oven.

Fresh from the oven, the old and familiar favorites were laid on the table, like the Pan de Sal de Antigua, soft and chewy buns topped with a fine layer of powdery crumbs. Loosely translated as "bread of salt" in Spanish, the popular pan de sal is a breakfast favorite best enjoyed with coffee and cheese...

...the aptly named Pan de Putok, crusty buns with their signature cracked tops, hence the name. The compact buns are both satisfying and filling with its soft yet dense texture, and perfect for dunking in coffee or hot chocolate...

...and the Pan de Hangin, a lighter version of the usual pan de sal, pillow soft and chewy to the bite. Spread some native white cheese, or kesong puti, or even salted butter, and you're in a happy place.

Trays filled with other familiar shapes were then pulled out from the oven, including these Triangulos, thin and crisp bread that's great with liver pate...

...and these Bunuelos, perfect when paired and dipped in thick Spanish-style hot chocolate. The flat, mildly sweet and salty, crisp and chewy bread is just great with hot chocolate, absorbing the chocolate releasing a burst of rich flavors with every bite. During the book launch, Chef Gene Gonzalez also served fresh Carabao Ricotta, Chicken Liver Pate, and creamy Mascarpone alongside the freshly baked bread, with freshly brewed coffee, hot chocolate, salabat, and sago't gulaman to wash it all down.

Cafe Ysabel's kitchen also served hearty mains to pair with the assortment of freshly baked local bread, like the savory Sweet Glazed Ham (L), tender pork draped with a sweet and tart glaze, and the Slow-Roasted Beef Belly (R), thinly sliced, and a perfect filling for pan de sal. 

Chef Gene Gonzalez also served one of Cafe Ysabel's signature dishes, the rustic and comforting Pistou Sulipan, a hearty dish made with eggs, ham, chorizo, potatoes, green peas and peppers perfect with pan de sal or the soft and sweet ensaimada. Your Pistou Sulipan is prepared fresh ala minute, and served hot straight off the pan.

For dessert, Chef Gene Gonzalez served his Tropical Fruitcake, topped with fruits covered in a sweet glaze...

...and Cafe Ysabel's signature bestseller, the Ensaimada Pampanguena, a soft brioche baked with heaps of creamy butter and topped with grated cheese and sugar. Over the centuries, the ensaimada has evolved from its Spanish roots to become one of the more iconic Filipino specialties, traditionally served during the yuletide season with hot chocolate, ham and pistou.

Chef Gene Gonzalez then served his sweet Cinnamon Mango Bread, made specially for the book launch, a soft bread rolled with layers of sweet mangoes and the sharp notes of cinnamon.

It was then time to pick up a plate and dig in...

...starting with Pan de Sal de Antigua, Pan de Putok, and Pan de Hangin with Pistou Sulipan, Sweet Glazed Ham, and Slow-Roasted Beef Belly...

...followed by Corned Beef Sarsiado and Adobo Flakes with Pan de Hangin and Triangulos...

...capped by another plate with Ensaimada Pampanguena, Sweet Glazed Ham and Bunuelos paired with a cup of hot chocolate for a memorable late afternoon merienda at Cafe Ysabel.

After a sumptuous merienda with freshly baked local bread, Chef Gino Gonzalez (L) then introduced his father, who he described as the "original Jedi of the kitchen," Chef Gene Gonzalez (R). An advocate of ancestral cuisine, the latest book by Chef Gene Gonzalez affirms one of his many passions, preserving the richness of our culinary heritage.

And you can find all these local bread recipes in the latest book by Chef Gene Gonzalez, now available through Anvil Publishing Inc. and leading bookstores. Flip through the pages and relive the days of the neighborhood panaderia with a nostalgic trip down memory lane, with Philippine Breads by Chef Gene Gonzalez.

Cafe Ysabel is located at 455 P. Guevarra Street, San Juan City, or call 726-9326 for reservations and inquiries.

For more information on Philippine Breads by Gene Gonzalez, you can visit the website of Anvil Publishing Inc. here at http://www.anvilpublishing.com/shop/philippine-breads/.

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